I just returned from an amazing trip to the Pantanal tropical wetlands in Brazil. It’s hard to overstate the beauty, sheer scale and ecological importance of this region. Spanning across Brazil, Bolivia, and Paraguay, the Pantanal covers more than 43 million acres—making it the largest tropical wetland on Earth. To put that in perspective, it’s roughly twenty times the size of Florida’s Everglades, or about the size of the entire state of Washington.
This vast, unspoiled landscape is filled with an extraordinary variety of plant and animal life. The highlight and main goal of my visit was, without a doubt, photographing jaguars. Typically elusive, these magnificent cats are surprisingly abundant in the Pantanal. Thanks to protection from hunting and habitat loss, jaguars—and their primary prey, caiman—they have over the past 30 or so years grown accustomed to human presence. As a result, they are now readily spotted along the banks of the Cuiabá River and its winding tributaries.
Getting There — Reaching the Pantanal isn’t exactly easy. Most journeys begin in São Paulo, the main international gateway. From there, you take a domestic flight to the inland city of Cuiabá—about two hours by air. After that, it’s all by road.
The first stretch of driving takes you along standard city roads and highways to the small town of Poconé, which marks the start of the Transpantanal Highway. This unique road is an 80-kilometer stretch of dirt and wooden bridges, which can be quite rough in stretches. Road conditions vary significantly with the weather, so the drive can take anywhere from four to over seven hours if it’s muddy.
All told—including the typical overnight flights from Europe or North America, the connection to Cuiabá, and the overland journey—it takes roughly four days to reach the heart of the Pantanal.
Accommodations and Guide Services — I traveled with a local operator called Pantanal Jaguar Safaris, and they were simply outstanding. As one of the top guide services in the region, they offer some of the best safari experiences available, along with the most comfortable accommodations in the area.
Their guides are exceptional—deeply knowledgeable about the region, its terrain, and, most importantly, the behavior and habits of the wildlife. Each day included two outings: morning safaris that set out around 6 AM and returned by noon for lunch, and an afternoon safari starting around 2 PM and returning by sundown at 6 PM. Starting early and returning at sunset allowed for working in the best light.
Photography Gear – I was very happy with the gear I brought and would absolutely bring exactly the same setup if I were to visit the area again. Below is my main gear list:
Nikon Z8 (two bodies)
Nikon 24–70mm f/4 S
Nikon 70–200mm f/2.8 S
Nikon 400mm f/2.8 TC
Nikon 1.4x and 2x Z-mount teleconverters
The two Nikon Z8 cameras were a perfect combination. Being identical cameras and setup the same way made it easy to use them interchangeably without having to rethink controls or button locations. I had one body mounted to the 400mm f/2.8TC with the other mounted to the 70-200mm f/2.8. The 45.6MP sensor, fast AF, and 20fps raw shooting made the Z8 an ideal choice for any and all action I found. The only action I ever missed was because of me, not the Z8.
The 400mm f/2.8 TC was by far my most-used lens. The image quality of this lens is absolutely astounding. The fast f/2.8 aperture was ideal for capturing fast low-light action in the early mornings and late afternoons. The shallow depth of field also helped to simply obliterate backgrounds. The real standout feature, though, was the built-in teleconverter. I found myself frequently switching between the base 400mm f/2.8 and internal TC setting of 560mm f/4. Those two focal lengths conveniently covered most every shooting situation I encountered without having to bring a second lens or manually swapping in and out an external TC.
I also frequently used the 70–200mm f/2.8, particularly when subjects were closer or when I wanted to follow fast action. Jaguars often hunt caiman from high riverbanks or tree branches, and the wider focal range made it easier to frame and follow the moment.
I also brought along the 24–70mm f/4 for landscape and general shooting. I didn’t use it much, but since it is so compact and lightweight, it is always in my bag.
I often used the 1.4x teleconverter with the 70–200mm for a 98-280mm combination to bridge the gap with the 400mm f/2.8. I did not use the 2x teleconverter at all though. If I had pursued more small bird photography, I would have, however, likely used it with the 400mm f/2.8 for an 800mm f/5.6 combination. Either way, I would still bring it again as part of a backup plan. If anything were to happen to the 400mm f/2.8, I could use the 2x with the 70–200mm for a 140–400mm f/5.6. While not ideal it would definitely to save a trip.
I brought a monopod but did not use it. Trying to keep on target with the 400mm in a rocking boat was just a little too much effort with the monopod. While the 400mm f/2.8 is a handful to hand hold, it was definitely manageable. Being seated or using the edge of the boat was sufficient to keep things steady. I definitely do not recommend a tripod. It is just too cumbersome and takes up too much floor space on a boat – especially with other photographers.
Certainly a lot of alternative, lighter, and less expensive lens options also exist. Probably the most common alternative setups that I saw amongst the more serious photographers were the Nikon 180-600mm or the Sony 200-600mm zooms. In good light, the flexibility and ease of hand-holding these zooms is a definite plus. I did also see a number of photographers with 100-400mm lenses. However, I feel that they might be just a little short for some situations.
Weather and Clothing — As a tropical, equatorial region, the Pantanal experiences two main seasons: wet and dry. The dry season is prime time for safari tours, with generally warm to hot days and cooler mornings and evenings. That said, cold fronts do occasionally move through, bringing surprisingly chilly weather—especially noticeable during early-morning boat rides with lots of wind chill. The key to being prepared for whatever the conditions are is layering.
My recommendations for layers and what I typically wore are as follows:
Tops:
Short-sleeve T-shirts – Lightweight and moisture-wicking fabric baselayer shirts that I wore everyday. I brought three.
- Sun Shirt – Long sleeve hooded sun shirt that I always wore over my baselayer T-shirts. My absolute favorite is the Outdoor Research Echo Hoody. It’s incredibly lightweight, breathable and definitely protects from the sun.
Lightweight Fleece – My go-to was the Arc’teryx Delta LT Jacket. It is light, breathable, and generally warm enough for the cool mornings.
Shell / Rain Jacket – It did not rain during my trip, but I still used this layer often for early morning wind protection on the boat. I used the Marmot Mica Jacket, a super-lightweight and breathable rain jacket. When used over the Arc’teryx Delta LT Jacket, it was an amazingly warm combination.
Pants:
Softshell Pants – I used both the prAna Zion and ExOfficio Amphi soft-shell pants. Both are sturdy, breathable, and quick-drying. I never wore shorts, preferring the better sun protection of long pants while on the boat.
Hat and Gloves:
- Sun Hat – A full-brim hat offers the best coverage but can flap around quite a bit when the boat is moving at speed. A baseball-style cap provides less coverage but is more stable in the wind. In either case, bring a hat keeper or chin strap—boat rides generate enough breeze to send an unsecured hat flying. I brought one of each.
- Warm Hat and Liner Gloves – I didn’t bring either one. However, next time I’d pack a pair of lightweight liner gloves and a small beanie for cold mornings. They take up almost no packing space to bring along just in case.
- Buff / Neck Gaiter – A relatively new addition to my kit, and now something I now almost always bring along. I wore a buff every day on the boat. It served as a great face covering during chilly morning/evening boat rides and doubled as effective sun protection for my neck during the heat of the day.
Packing Tips:
The key is not to overpack. Two pairs of pants, a few of T-shirts, a couple of sun shirts, socks and underwear, and a couple of evening shirts for dinner are really all you need. I brought a swimsuit but didn’t use it—it was too cool. Still, during hotter stretches, it could be a nice option for cooling off after a long day on the water.
Special Considerations:
Sunscreen – Bring plenty. While many boats are equipped with sun covers, they have to be lowered when multiple boats are present for wildlife viewing. Expect to spend long hours in direct sun.
Mosquitoes – As you’d expect in a tropical environment, mosquitoes are around. The good news is that, as of this writing, malaria isn’t a concern in the Pantanal. Still, it’s smart to bring bug wipes or insect repellent—especially if you’re prone to bites.
Food and Water – At Hotel Porto Jofre, where I stayed, both the food and water were safe and of good quality. No issues at all.
You are indeed a fantastic Photographer David. I knew you would be and I am so proud of you and Elizabeth for your accomplishments. I look forward to seeing all of the fun things you did. Great Job Incredible images
Thank you. It was an amazing photo trip!