I recently returned from a multi-week trip to southern Africa. My first week was in the Chobe River in Botswana. The Chobe River floodplain, which spans northern Botswana and Namibia, supports a remarkable variety of wildlife photography opportunities, including elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and hundreds of bird species. Predators such as lions, cheetahs, and sometimes even elusive honey badgers can be seen there.
This rich ecosystem of the Chobe experiences three main seasons, each shaping the landscape and wildlife in different ways. The dry season, when I visited, is from May to October. It is characterized by warm days, cool nights, and little to no rainfall. During this time, animals gather along the Chobe River, making wildlife viewing exceptional. The hot dry season, which is September to November, brings rising temperatures before the rains begin. Daytime temperatures often exceed 35°C (95°F) during this time. The wet season, also known locally as “The Green Season” is from November to April and is marked by regular rainfall, transforming the landscape into lush green floodplains.
The Best of Chobe
The specific trip I took was called the “Best of Chobe” offered by Pangolin Photo Safaris. This one week safari is an exceptional way to get a very good idea of the area. The first three nights were aboard the newly built Pangolin Voyager houseboat. The rest of the week was spent at the Pangolin Lodge in Kasane.
The houseboat is absolutely amazing, with spacious, comfortable rooms and a large dining and common area. Each day included two outings on the Chobe River—one early in the morning and another late in the afternoon. These are, of course, the best times to take best advantage of the beautiful light. During the middle of the day we had lunch on the houseboat, reviewed images, and enjoyed the amazing scenery as the houseboat moved up the river.
After our time on the houseboat, we moved to the Pangolin Lodge in Kasane for the remainder of the week. There, we alternated between boat excursions and overland game drives, again scheduled to make the most of the early morning and evening light.
The accommodations at the lodge are equally impressive. The rooms are spacious and comfortable. Perhaps the highlight of each day—other than the wildlife photography—were the excellent dinners. Sitting outside at a beautifully set table while enjoying a chef-prepared meal made for a wonderful end to each day.
One of the many great things about Pangolin Photo Safaris is how specifically they cater to wildlife photographers.
They limit seating in the boats to a single row and on the game drives, they accommodate just three photographers per safari vehicle. This ensures that everyone has their own row and an unobstructed view. In addition, a professional Pangolin photographer accompanies every outing.
Regardless of your skill level, the Pangolin photographers are there to help—and they will undoubtedly make you a better photographer. If you are new to wildlife photography, they can help set up your camera, offer guidance in the field, and demonstrate more effective editing techniques. Experienced photographers will also benefit greatly from their extensive local knowledge and years of experience. There is always something new to learn from them. The bottom line is that, whatever your level of experience, the Pangolin professionals will help you become a better wildlife photographer. They are excellent.
Getting There – Getting to the Chobe is not overly difficult. Depending on where you arrive in Africa, the gateway for the Best of Chobe is Kasane, located in northeastern Botswana. My international flight arrived in Johannesburg, making for any easy flight to Kasane the next day. I slotted in an extra day for safety as well as for an opportunity to explore a little bit of Johannesburg.
Interestingly, the houseboat is located on the opposite side of the river, in Namibia. So, shortly after arriving in Botswana, you must exit Botswana and enter Namibia. When leaving the houseboat, everyone must then do the reverse, exit Namibia and re-enter Botswana. It makes for a good number of stamps in the passport, but the process is relatively straightforward.
Photography Gear – I was very happy with the gear I brought and would absolutely bring exactly the same setup if I were to visit the area again. Below is my main gear list:
Nikon Z8 (two bodies) – The two Nikon Z8 cameras were a perfect combination. Being identical cameras and setup the same way made it easy to use them interchangeably without having to rethink controls or button locations. I typically had one body mounted to the 400mm f/2.8TC with the other mounted to the 70-200mm f/2.8 SII. The 45.6MP sensor, fast AF, and 20fps raw shooting made the Z8 an ideal choice for any and all action I found. The only action I ever missed was because of me, not the Z8.
Nikon 24–70mm f/4 S – I did not use this lens a lot. However, for getting some landscape and general shots it was indispensable. I prefer this lens over the faster 24-70mm f/2.8 or the versatile 24-120mm f/4 mainly because it is just so much smaller and lighter.
Nikon 70–200mm f/2.8 S II – I used this lens quite often to capture animals in their natural habitat or when they were simply too close for the 400mm. I absolutely love this new version II of the Z-mount 70-200mm as it is so much lighter and a little shorter than the previous version I. The AF and optics of this lens are absolutely amazing.
Nikon 400mm f/2.8 TC – This was by far my most-used lens. The 400mm focal length was ideal for most subjects, while the fast f/2.8 aperture was invaluable for capturing fast-moving action in the low light of early mornings and late afternoons. The shallow depth of field also helped separate subjects from their backgrounds, especially when they were relatively close to the background.
For birds or subjects that were a little farther away, being able to engage the built-in teleconverter was extremely helpful. It saved me countless times from having to stop and manually swap in and out an external teleconverter.
Nikon 1.4x and 2x Z-mount teleconverters – I often used the 1.4x teleconverter with the 70–200mm, giving me a 98–280mm f/4 combination that nicely bridged the gap to the 400mm f/2.8. I rarely used the 2x teleconverter, but if I had needed to reach 800mm, I would have used it without hesitation on the 400mm f/2.8.
More importantly, I like having the 2x along as a backup in case something happened to the 400mm f/2.8. I could always pair it with the 70–200mm to get out to 400mm. While that combination would not be ideal in terms of optical quality or speed, it could certainly save the trip.
Gura Gear Kiboku 22L+ Camera Bag – I opted for the smaller 22L+ rather than the bigger 30L. The large 400mm f/2.8 TC was a little tight, but worked fine. The smaller bag made my overall setup lighter and more comfortable to carry. It also fit in the small overhead bins on Canada Air Regional Jets. The 30L would not have.
I did not bring a monopod or a tripod. Tripods are not recommended as they are particularly ungainly to use on either the boat or in a safari vehicle. A monopod could have been helpful at times, especially with the big 400mm f/2.8. However, I found that most of the time I preferred handholding or using the side of the boat for support.
Certainly, there are plenty of alternative lens options that are lighter and less expensive. Among the more serious photographers, the most common setups I saw were the Nikon 180–600mm, Sony 200–600mm, and Canon 100–500mm zooms. In good light, the flexibility of these lenses, combined with their relatively manageable size and weight, is a definite advantage, particularly when hand-holding.
I also saw a couple of the newer Sony 300mm f/2.8 lenses being used with teleconverters. This is an impressively lightweight option that still offers excellent image quality.
Weather and Clothing — I was there in June, which is considered the dry season. It is characterized by warm to somewhat hot days and cold mornings with very little likelihood of rain. As such I relied on layering to stay comfortable.
Tops:
Short-sleeve T-shirts – Lightweight and moisture-wicking fabric baselayer shirts that I wore everyday. I brought three.
- Sun Shirt – Long sleeve hooded sun shirt that I always wore over my baselayer T-shirt. My absolute favorite is the Outdoor Research Echo Hoody. It’s incredibly lightweight, breathable and definitely protects from the sun.
Lightweight Fleece – My go-to was the Arc’teryx Delta LT Jacket. It is light, breathable, and generally warm enough for the cool mornings.
Shell Jacket – As I was not worried about rain, I went with the Arc’teryx Squamish wind shell. It was a perfect wind break layer over my fleece for the cold mornings on the boat or in the vehicle. It is super lightweight and small so I could easily stow it in my camera bag when it warmed up.
Pants:
Softshell Pants – I used both the prAna Zion and ExOfficio Amphi soft-shell pants. Both are sturdy, breathable, and quick-drying. I never wore shorts, preferring the better sun protection of long pants while on the boat.
Hat and Gloves:
- Sun Hat – A full-brim hat offers the best coverage but can flap around quite a bit when the boat is moving at speed. A baseball-style cap provides less coverage but is more stable in the wind. In either case, bring a hat keeper or chin strap—boat rides generate enough breeze to send an unsecured hat flying. I brought one of each.
- Warm Hat and Liner Gloves – I didn’t bring either one. However, next time I’d pack a pair of lightweight liner gloves and a small beanie for cold mornings. They take up almost no packing space to bring along just in case.
- Buff / Neck Gaiter – An indispensable addition as it provides warmth in the mornings and evenings as well as protection from dust while on the game drives.
Packing Tips:
The key is not to overpack. Two pairs of pants, a few T-shirts, a couple of sun shirts, and enough socks and underwear were all I really needed. I wore just one pair of shoes—a lightweight pair of hiking shoes. I also brought a swimsuit, but never used it; the weather was simply too cool at the time.
Special Considerations:
Sunscreen – Even though the boats and safari vehicles are covered, the low morning and afternoon sun shines strongly into the sides. Sunscreen is recommended.
Mosquitoes – Since it was the dry season, there really were not a lot of mosquitos. I brought insect repellent but did not need it. Malaria is, however, present in the Chobe, so as a precaution, I still took malaria prophylaxis.
Conclusion:
If you are looking for a magnificent safari experience, The Best of Chobe offered by Pangolin Photo Safaris is an excellent choice. It combines the best of both worlds, with wildlife viewing from specialized photography boats and safari vehicles. The accommodations, both on the houseboat and at the lodge, are comfortable, and the staff is outstanding.
Wildlife viewing opportunities are plentiful, with excellent professional guides who know where to find the animals and experienced Pangolin staff photographers who are always ready to help. For photographers, the combination of abundant wildlife, specialized photography platforms, knowledgeable guides, and expert photographic support makes this a truly exceptional safari experience.
